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Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Tank factory: two Space Wolf rhinos and a razorback

Putting some old, yet unfinished projects here. These two Rhinos were started last September. Due to my nature of wanting to do other stuff on a whim these were left on the shelf. Once I'm done with them Cryx I'll finish these babies up. All of these were magnetized so they'll all can be either a rhino or a razorback. I'll post pictures later of how I did the magnetizing (these and the predator).

I'm sorry that I don't have much images of the different phases. These were taken long before I even thought about writing to teh interwebs. Also my memory is a bit hazy, so the colors I used might be a little off... But hopefully you'll get the general idea.

I primed all the chassis black using Army Painter black primer. I tried to ensure an even and thin coat on the model with quick swipes using short bursts.

The one on the left is done with the stipples and 1st highlight on them.
The other two show the stipple effect. 



First I painted the insides of the vehicles. I basecoated them with a mix of VMA Black and VGC Cold Grey. Highlights were done using plain Cold Grey. The weathering on the inside was done using the foam from a GW blister pack. I just ripped some of it and dipped it into a fairly dark color which I then carefully (not so on some spots) applied on the places where the wear and tear would most likely occur.

Interior done.

I highlighted the foam stipples with Cold Grey and used GW Bolt Gun Metal for the exposed metal.
The radar control box was done pretty much the same way as with the Pred. The buttons have a coat of GW Dheneb Stone with a lighter highlight color. The red panic button has different shades of red painted the same way as painting gems.

Painting the interior was by far the most time consuming part painting these. After that was finished I glued the chassis together (where magnets weren't used) and put them on a queue for the airbrushing.

Interior close-up.


Ready for assembly.
For the tank hull used the same colors as with the interior. The razorback was left at the previous stage and I continued with the two rhinos.I tried two different approaches here. With 1st rhino below I experimented with  the color modulation technique. You can see the slight gradient running from the top to the bottom of the side hull.

With the second one I used pre-shading. I didn't quite get the hang of it yet so need to practice that some more. What it involves is airbrushing all the edges of different parts with black so when base coat is dry the black shows through as nice shadows. Won't get into the details here but go and see WGConsortium's nice tutorial on Youtube.

Both of these were given a coat of Vallejo Gloss Varnish to help with the washing. I used the Soft Body Black wash from Les Bursley's recipes which I applied on the details and all the recesses on the hull.

Note: dilute the varnish with for example distilled water to make it flow better. The damn stuff is thick.

Color modulation.

Pre-shading version.


Taken with my Android phone, so the quality is not very good. But it kinda shows
the status I'm currently at.

Here is where I am at now. Edge highlights are done on the color modulation rhino. Next on the list, after I'm done with the Cryx battle box:

  • Finish the edge highlights on the other one
  • Yellow on the front and back side hulls (the big recessed areas)
  • Weathering
    • Got me some new pigments to test
    • Wear on the hull
Comments?

One question to the Finnish readers:
What alcohol you guys use to tie the pigments? I know that the american internet calls it "rubbing alcohol" but what's the Finnish equivalent?

Cheers.

2 comments:

  1. As far as I know it's nearly pure ethanol :D You can also try Pigment Fixer by MiG.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks for the tip. I bought what I think is the Vallejo version of the Pigment Fixer. I'm just about to start the weathering, so we'll see how it works.

    ReplyDelete

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